The Philosophy of Nasomatto: A Close Look at Black Afgano (2024)

The mystique of the Nasomatto brand stems from its deliberate decision not to disclose the notes of its fragrances. Alessandro Gualtieri offers only what is required – just enough to start off this journey of experiencing the fragrance, insisting that the perfumes should be experienced as a whole, arousing a temporary bliss in the wearer. Perfumes dissected into their parts put the individual at a distance, diminishing the complete impact of a scent that is allowed to confront the wearer and live alongside them, with what Gualtieri says is “an intelligence of their own”.

In this sense, these perfumes become mythical objects, insulated from interpretation and retaining their mystery: they speak for themselves. Nasomatto perfumes are visceral expressions – outbursts according to the mania of the creative process. Gualtieri gives birth to life, and respects the fact that it is a life entirely of its own.

Without disregard for Gualtieri’s quest for euphoric experience, the indeterminate nature of his fragrances result in an altogether different delight of interpretation. Is this not a fundamental part of the human experience - to approach things, intent upon appreciation? Gualtieri’s creative signature, with a tendency to lean on a certain palette of ambery-woody molecules leave an unmistakable imprint on his fragrances. And so, although Gualtieri gives birth to autonomous fragrances, they no less wear the mark of their pater.

The Philosophy of Nasomatto: A Close Look at Black Afgano (1)


After describing the experience of Black Afgano, this article highlights some of the important ingredients that contribute to Black Afgano’s impression. To the trained nose, Gaultieri’s perfumes speak in the language of aromachemicals. This article believes that with transparency, this develops an olfactory literacy in which perfumes can be better appreciated. Furthermore, this list is not exhaustive, and it is (at times) conjectural – it is an exercise in analysis.

Black Afgano (Nasomatto, 2009)

Black Afgano (2009) offers the clearest expression of the Nasomatto style, equally encapsulating the brand’s ethos. Its simple note list of coffee, oud, tobacco, and hashish becomes the basis of a trip. Its olfactory profile is merely a key towards a broader, more holistic experience. Its impression is that of many folds of black, illuminated by only a single point of light, its beams irradiating plumes of smoke and char. There is the gentle lift of green viscous sweetness, which becomes a lacquer on the textured surface of rough-hewn wood in an impenetrably black colour.

In many respects, Black Afgano is not meant to induce an easy experience – there is no guarantee that it’ll yield itself to the wearer.It has a brutal toughness. It is funky and coarse and unflinching about this fact. Nasomatto perfumes are interesting ones, they make us question our tastes whilst inducing an experience as we let the fragrances work themselves upon us. It is a mystery – its scent leads the way, along the resinous trail to its drydown where it becomes a sweetly smouldering scent.

The listed notes are united by a central theme of smoke and char. Roasted coffee and sticky hashish oleoresin – alight in a precious wooden pipe – become the frame in which tobacco and chips of agarwood are ignited in a ceremony of smoke and fumes. Remarkably, Black Afgano oscillates between woody and amber sensations and textures – defining its character. To explore this more deeply, there is more to the fragrance than the notes listed by the brand.

A Deeper Look: Ingredients

Texan Cedarwood

As to its woodiness, Black Afgano is overdosed with steam-distilled Texan cedarwood. The molecule cedrol (viz., cedrene) is responsible for the ingredient’s distinctive odour, lending undertones of pine, juniper berry, and vetiver. Additionally,thujopsene imparts characteristically dry, spicy, and herbaceous value. At this dosage, the cedar note is muscular with an undeniably camphoraceous overtone. This fragrance owes much to this ingredient, reported to have as much as 6% in its composition.

Labdanum Absolute

There’s no mistaking the importance of labdanum in perfumery, which is a sticky resin exuded from the rockrose flower, more commonly known as cistus. It is an amber material, rich with phenol compounds that contribute an animalic, leathery, and smoky quality. This is set against a strikingly plush softness, redolent of tonka bean and moss. Such is the beauty of natural materials, which consist of many different odorant molecules which make up the distinctive smell of a single ingredient, often contrasting as much as it is complementary. The complexity of labdanum adds dimension to compositions, and in Black Afgano, it ties the resinous green impression of hashish (suspected to be patchouli derived) with nuances of rosemary and intensely pungent and herbaceous marigold flower – punctuating the verdancy and stickiness. A little goes a long way, especially for its nuancing effect, and the 0.5% found in Black Afgano makes it hum a complex tune.

Cedar Molecules: Timberol, Norlimbanol, & Karanal/Okoumal

Synthetic materials are often available to the perfumer’s palette in order to provide precise effects to the overall composition. Black Afgano cannot be without Timberol or Norlimbanol, which in overdose underlines the masculinity of a fragrance with a dark bold line. These notes are notably dry like sawdust and sharp, with woody, animalic, and warm-spicy characteristics pivoting around a cedar-and-amber-like theme. It adds performance, substance, and diffusion to fragrances, and accents the fragrance all the way down from top to bottom. These notes, alongside some other undisclosed ingredients (along the lines of vetiver, guaiac, cade, and leather materials) produce the effective and multifaceted smoke note of Black Afgano.

This is helped along the way with Karanal, an amazingly powerful and dry woody-amber material that calls to mind hot tar and tobacco; a smouldering effect imperative to this fragrance, lending it its auratic glow. Interestingly, Karanal was recently restricted in its use and perfumers are able to employ Okoumal – a proprietary Givaudan ingredient that similarly lends richness and warmth, working well with cedar, patchouli, and sandalwood.

Amber Molecules: Ambrocenide/Ambroxan

Black Afgano’s tenacity and extremity is helped along with Ambrocenide – an intensely ambery molecule that is likely backed up by other amber molecules, including Ambroxan and Ambrettolide – amongst many other potential derivatives. These immensely popular ambersynthetics mark a particular masculine niche style, in which Black Afgano was anearly adopter of this amber-overdosing style. Ambrocenide, for instance, is significantly tough, and is one of the strongest amber-wood molecules available to the perfumer.

Sandalwood Molecules: Ebanol & Bacdanol

These sandalwood molecule brings power, shading the other woody-amber molecules in this fragrance with rich and intense hues. Ebanol has a discernible musk facet, whilst Bacdanol is nuanced with a slightly rosy floral tone. It bestows the aromatic sensation of sandalwood, with an intensity otherwise not achievable with the natural material. Gualtieri has proved to have a tendency for these sandalwood materials, brazenly on display in Stercus (Orto Parisi), Boccanera (Orto Parisi), and Blamage (Nasomatto).

Regardless of what is thought and said of Black Afgano, it is evidently a work of the most modern order, embracing synthetic ingredients towards the end of achieving an aesthetic effect on the wearer - the timeless goal of all art. Gualtieri is a maximalist, making grand sculptures in scent - and Black Afgano remains a must in the Nasomatto/Orto Parisi museum.

The Philosophy of Nasomatto: A Close Look at Black Afgano (2024)

FAQs

What is the story behind Nasomatto perfume? ›

Nasomatto, meaning “Crazy Nose” in Italian, is the brainchild of Alessandro Gualtieri, aka The Nose. The house was established in 2007 by Gualtieri as a desperate outburst after feeling too restricted by the commercial multinational companies he had previously worked for.

Is Nasomatto a niche perfume? ›

Nasomatto, meaning "crazy nose" in Italian, is a niche perfume brand founded by Alessandro Gualtieri, who does not reveal the full composition of these uncommon scents because, according to Gualtieri, "only a nose knows".

When to wear Black Afgano perfume? ›

Suitable for the cold and for summer and spring evenings, perhaps not for mornings of scorching sun but I reserve the right to try it even in that context. PS: I don't know what hashish Gualtieri has heard, but BA doesn't even look a bit like it. Dark and cozy. Black Afgano has kinda' two faces while worn on my skin.

Is Black Afgano long lasting? ›

The base notes of this Nasomatto Black Afgano perfume consists of agarwood and incense that produce a soothing, long-lasting fragrance. It lingers around you for a prolonged time, thereby keeping you happy and fresh.

What is the story behind perfumes? ›

The French later gave the name “parfum” to the smells produced by burning incense. Indeed, the first form of perfume was incense, first made by the Mesopotamians about 4000 years ago. Ancient cultures burned a variety of resins and wood at their religious ceremonies.

What does Nasomatto black afgano smell like? ›

There is also a hint of wood-scented cigarette smoke in the opening minutes of the fragrance. Black Afgano's mid-notes develop into smelling like marijuana with a dry, herbal-leafy accord (cured tobacco) tinged with a sweet sweaty note. In the dry down Black Afgano becomes vanillic ambery with a touch of patchouli.

What is black afgano perfume made from? ›

description
familieswoody , ambery
head notesdavana, saffron, thyme
heart notescinnamon, coffee, incense, raspberry, tobacco, violet
base notesagarwood, amber, ambrox, animalic, balm, cedar, gayac wood, gurjum balm, musk, tonka, vanilla

Which country made Nasomatto perfume? ›

Designed in Amsterdam and made in Italy, Nasomatto (meaning crazy nose) fragrances are modern, rich and spirited.

What is luxury niche perfume? ›

These perfumes are individually crafted with high quality natural ingredients, creating enticing fragrances to give you a multi-sensory experience. The niche perfumery industry tends to favour creativity, originality and self-expression over common trends.

Is Black Afgano sweet? ›

Black Afgano capture all the effects of hashish: It's smoky, sweet and deep. It gives the effect of fun without contraindications. It's rich and hypnotic, with dark and dangerous notes such as coffee, oud, tobacco and drugs.

Why put perfume before bed? ›

The short answer is yes, absolutely. “Fragrance has the power to evoke feelings of happiness, sensuality and relaxation, which can enhance bedtime routines and promote a positive mood before sleep,” says Walter Johnsen, vice president of product development at Inter Parfums.

What are the ingredients in Black Afgano Nasomatto? ›

ALCOHOL DENAT., AQUA (WATER), PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, AMYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, COUMARIN, EUGENOL, FARNESOL, LINALOOL, BHT, ETHYL HEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, ETHYL HEXYL SALICYLATE, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 42090.

Which is the most lasting perfume? ›

  • Chanel. Coco Noir Eau de Parfum. ...
  • Amouage. Rose Aqor Attar. ...
  • Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum. ...
  • Frédéric Malle. Portrait of a Lady Parfum Spray. ...
  • Glossier. Glossier You Eau de Parfum. ...
  • Tom Ford. Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum. ...
  • Kayali. Oudgasm Vanilla Oud 36. ...
  • Brown Girl Jane. Casablanca Eau de Parfum.
Apr 22, 2024

What brand is Black Afgano? ›

This bottle of perfume is part of the project Nasomatto. The fragrance aims to evoke the best quality of Hashish. It is the result of a quest to arouse the effects of temporary bliss.

What are the components of Black Afgano perfume? ›

INGREDIENTS. ALCOHOL DENAT., AQUA (WATER), PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, AMYL, CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, COUMARIN, EUGENOL, FARNESOL, LINALOOL, BHT, ETHYL HEXYL, METHOXYCINNAMATE, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, ETHYL HEXYL SALICYLATE, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 42090.

What is the history of Nasomatto brand? ›

Nasomatto is a niche perfume brand founded in 2007 by perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri. The brand name means "crazy nose" in Italian, which reflects Gualtieri's bold and innovative approach to fragrance creation. Nasomatto's perfumes are known for being intense, provocative, and often with unusual and unexpected notes.

Is the novel perfume based on a true story? ›

Possible inspiration. The real-life story of Spanish serial killer Manuel Blanco Romasanta (1809-1863), also known as the "Tallow-Man", who killed several women and children, sold their clothes, and extracted their body-fat to make soap, resembles Grenouille's methods in some ways.

What is the oldest perfume in the world? ›

There are records of an unnamed Bronze Age (400 years ago) Cypriot perfume house found in 2003. But the oldest concept of perfume is Attar(an essential oil) which probably dates back to about 60000 years ago.

What is the story behind the movie perfume? ›

Set in 18th-century France, the film tells the story of Jean-Baptiste Grenouille (Whishaw), an olfactory genius, and his homicidal quest for the perfect scent. Producer Eichinger bought the film rights to Süskind's novel in 2000, and began writing the screenplay together with Birkin.

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